Hungarytraditional

Gulyás (Goulash)

Hungary's national dish and the world's most misappropriated recipe — a paprika-orange beef and onion soup (not a stew) cooked with caraway, green pepper and potato; the base is a sofrito of lard and two full tablespoons of sweet Hungarian paprika (the variety matters enormously); the Hungarian original is nothing like the thick Central European stews that carry its name.

Origin

Hungary

Category

traditional

"Hungary's national dish is a soup, not a stew — paprika-orange beef broth with caraway and potato. The thick stews the world calls 'goulash' are something else entirely."

About Gulyás (Goulash)

Hungary's national dish and the world's most misappropriated recipe — a paprika-orange beef and onion soup (not a stew) cooked with caraway, green pepper and potato; the base is a sofrito of lard and two full tablespoons of sweet Hungarian paprika (the variety matters enormously); the Hungarian original is nothing like the thick Central European stews that carry its name.

Hungarian gulyás is not the thick Central European stew the world calls goulash. It is a soup — a paprika-orange beef and onion broth cooked with caraway, green pepper and potato. The base is a sofrito of lard and two full tablespoons of sweet Hungarian paprika. The paprika must be Hungarian (Szeged or Kalocsa) and must be fresh. Old paprika is grey and bitter.

Every Central European country makes a thick beef stew and calls it goulash. None of them are gulyás. The Hungarian original is closer to a consommé enriched with paprika than to the thick stews that bear its name in Germany, Austria and the Netherlands.

What to Expect

The gulyás arrives in a deep bowl, the broth clear-ish and deep orange-red. The beef is in large cubes, fork-tender. The paprika is present in every sip — warming and slightly sweet.

Why Try It

Gulyás tells you that Hungarian cooking has been badly misrepresented internationally — the original is lighter, cleaner and more interesting than its imitations.

Insider Tips

1

Order it at a csárda (Hungarian roadside inn) for the most traditional context.

2

The paprika must be Hungarian — ask. Import paprika from Spain or China is the wrong product.

3

Request extra bread (kenyér) — the broth demands something to soak it.

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