Convento de San Francisco

About Convento de San Francisco

The convent was the headquarters of the Franciscan Order in Peru, playing a vital role in the evangelization of the Andes. Its construction was a marvel of the time, surviving the devastating 1746 earthquake that leveled most of Lima. The library served as a center of intellectual life in the viceroyalty, preserving forbidden books and scientific texts alongside religious works. The catacombs remained the city's primary burial site for over a century, regardless of social status, until Enlightenment-era reforms regarding public hygiene led to their closure. Today, the complex is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Historic Centre of Lima, preserved as a pinnacle of colonial art and architecture.

In the historic core of Lima, the bright yellow facade of the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco stands as one of the finest examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in the New World. This sprawling religious complex is a sanctuary of quiet cloisters, intricate 'mudéjar' ceilings, and one of the most beautiful colonial libraries in the world. However, most visitors come for what lies beneath: the catacombs. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the basement of the church served as the city’s primary cemetery, housing the remains of an estimated 25,000 people. The atmosphere transitions abruptly from the sun-drenched, pigeon-filled plaza outside to the dim, cool, and silent vaults below. It is a place of profound architectural beauty and somber mortality, where the history of Lima is literally stacked in bones beneath the feet of the living.

The current church was completed in 1674 after the previous structure was destroyed by an earthquake. It was designed to be one of the most earthquake-resistant buildings in the city, using a mix of wood and 'quincha' (reed and mud) for its upper sections to provide flexibility. The Franciscan order, known for their focus on education and the poor, built a library here that remains one of the most significant in the Americas, containing over 25,000 antique volumes, including a Bible from 1572. The catacombs were used until 1808 when the city's general cemetery was opened outside the walls. For decades, the vaults were forgotten and filled with debris until they were rediscovered and opened to the public in 1947. Since then, they have become a haunting reminder of the city's colonial past and the shared fate of its inhabitants.

Walking through the cloisters, you notice the vibrant 'azulejos'—glazed tiles from Seville—that line the walls, depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis. The light filters through the carved wooden screens, casting geometric patterns on the polished stone floors. You notice the smell of old wood, beeswax, and ancient paper as you pass the library doors. As you descend into the catacombs, the air becomes noticeably cooler and takes on a damp, mineral scent. You notice the silence is heavier here, muffled by the thick stone walls. The bones are arranged in geometric patterns—circles of skulls and lines of femurs—a 19th-century attempt to organize the remains for visitors. You feel the low ceilings pressing in, a visceral reminder of the subterranean depth. Most visitors miss the 'Last Supper' painting in the refectory, where the apostles are served a local Andean delicacy: roasted guinea pig. You notice the intricate, Moorish-style carvings on the ceilings, a testament to the Spanish architects' diverse cultural influences.

The Convento de San Francisco is located just two blocks from the Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas) in central Lima. It is easily reached by taxi or the 'Metropolitano' bus system (get off at Jirón de la Unión). The site can only be visited via a guided tour, which is included in the entrance fee. Tours run frequently in English and Spanish. Be aware that the catacombs have low ceilings and uneven floors, which may be difficult for those with claustrophobia or mobility issues.